The Norris Files: 2013

2013 in Review

Another slow year interrupted by illness, injury and life in general among other things. That being said, my exploration of the Bicentennial National Trail has been an enjoyable experience and one I will continue this coming winter. Personal circumstances dictate that 2014 will be another year of the 'micro' adventure as an when 'life' allows albeit, hopefully, more frequent than 2013. I hope everyone can get outdoors, safely, as much as possible in the coming year!

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Brisbane Sunset

Bicentennial National Trail;Teviot Brook Campsite to Killarney

Guidebook 6 of the Bicentennial National Trail (now out of print and available only in draft form and, as an ‘e-guide’) covers the Blackbutt to Killarney section. According to the Guidebook, none of this sections ~357kms' are particularly difficult for the cyclist. The route mostly follows the foothills of the Great Dividing Range passing just to the east of Toowoomba however, the range must be climbed just south of Toowoomba and again near the border. The Trail passes through a mixture of rough bushland and settled grazing/agricultural areas and makes use of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail as it leaves Blackbutt. It is worth mentioning that significant sections of the Trail in this region were destroyed in the 2011 and 2013 floods. As a result, there has been some major re-routing of the trail to deal not only with flood damage but also land access issues. Thus, Guidebook 6 is available only in draft form at the present time. Despite this, the Guidebook is complete in that it provides maps and route notes for the entire section

Guidebook 6 Map 17 and 18; Teviot Brook Campsite to Killarney (~32.50km)

With an ever so slight window of opportunity offering, some respite from the hottest September on record, it was time to plug a hole in my Bicentennial National Trail ride map. Even better, a gap existed through what is most likely my favorite part of South East Queensland, if not Australia. At its highest elevation 'The Head ' is situated over 1000 metres above sea level and overlooks some of Queensland’s finest natural attractions – Condamine Gorge, Wilson’s Peak, The Border Ranges and World Heritage listed rain forest. Its name, portrays its location, at the head of the mighty Murray Darling Basin, whose waters arise from one of the nearby high peaks and end their journey some 3000km later in the Coorong, after existing the Murray River. The region is a feast for the eyes and has never failed to delight, whenever I have visited.

Picking the trail up where I left off in a previous post (http://www.thenorrisfiles.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/bicentennial-national-trail-munchows.html), the trail leaves Teviot Brook campsite and briefly follows the lower slopes of the Main Range before turning right and immediately heading towards the sky. The next four kilometres, along the Head Road, are steep, narrow and winding with some impressive gradients. The Head Road, from the bottom of the Main Range up to Teviot Falls Lookout, as a result of flood damage, has been closed and barricaded to traffic for most of this year. Sadly, this road may never be opened to traffic again (update; reopened May 2014) if the cost of repairing the damage is considered too great by the local council(s). However, that will be motorised transports loss and a cyclists gain, particularly, as it will eliminate the very real concern of meeting oncoming traffic on one of the many blind switchbacks.

To a small degree, nature is already taking back the road and the landslips are not improving with time however, a traffic free piece of narrow bitumen through a national park, that gains 430 plus metres in elevation in under 3.5km, is gold to a cyclist and, in reverse, offers a breathtaking descent! Hitting the first hard pinch of the day I knew things were not 100 percent. Almost immediately I blew up, heart rate over 200 and more concerning, the odd missed beat. I rested, I pushed, I tried again with the same result. Now, it may have been from lack of sleep the previous night, or the two hour drive to the trail head or, the lack of an adequate 'warm up' into the first climb, or even the fact I was on a loaded 28kg steel framed touring bike, but this was becoming a little concerning considering what lay ahead. Another 100m of pushing, another attempt on the bike and this time the heart rate stabilized and the legs felt good. From there on, it was simply a steady, enjoyable and satisfying grind to the top of the Main Range and the Teviot Falls viewing area.

For me, it is always a special moment when you leave the closed confines of the climb up the Main Range, cross a cattle grid, veer slightly left and the impossibly green grassland valley of The Head opens up before your eyes. Ahead, the valley road is bordered by the the unmistakable contours of Wilsons Peak to the east and Mt Superbus, to the north. Centre of frame, the Cambanoora or Condamine Gorge narrows and cuts an impressive swathe through volcanic rock cliffs while high above, the irresistible vantage point of the Spring Creek Mountain Plateau beckons. Leaving the bitumen, the trail follows the dirt, though the gorge, along what is commonly know as the 14 River Crossing Road. In the past, the road through the gorge was used to carry supplies and mail to early settlers along the length of the gorge, and to bring timber to the railway in Killarney. Now, it is a popular 4WD and camping destination. This, at least in part, may be about to change.

The track, normally a most peaceful and scenic ride, with abundant wildlife sightings and clear creek crossings was, on this day, a hive of heavy machinery and earth-moving trucks. Today, the wildlife had vanished. I have never ridden this track with out numerous snake, kangaroo, wallaby, frilly-neck lizard, goanna and lace monitor sightings, yet I saw none of the previously mentioned. The 14 river crossings, normally ice cold and crystal clear were brown and turbid. The track, at the best of times rough and bone-shaking or, depending on the weather, a mud bath, was, in places as smooth as a bitumen highway. The heavy machinery is temporary, the now smooth track, is not. It would appear, the council in conjunction with local conservationists want to adopt a 'tread lightly' approach. The new surface will see a decline in the number of 4wds' using the track which I suspect, is the councils plan. The locals would like to attract more bike riders, walkers and artists to the area, in a 'leave no trace' approach which, would help protect the 14 endangered, vulnerable, threatened or indicator animal species that make their home in the gorge. Whatever the outcome, there is no doubt of its beauty, not only in its unique geology but also in the broad range of flora and fauna present.

Approaching Killarney, the Bicentennial National Trail leaves the Condamine River Road and follows a convoluted route into South Killarney. The cyclist, will most likely want to continue along the Condamine River Road into North Killarney where most of the options for supplies are. A rider has numerous options for extended rides in the area. The trail can be followed further south towards Cullendore and the border gate or, a loop ride can be patched together that will take you across the border to Woodenbong, over the Acacia Plateau, through White Swamp before returning to The Head Road. Another option, and the one I chose, is to follow the bitumen up to the Spring Creek Mountain Plateau and enjoy the view from Carrs Lookout before a fast and long descent drops you from 1060m in elevation to 370m in a little over 15km.

The ride up to the plateau (http://www.roadgrime.com.au/ride-routes/view/13/spring-creek-rd-carrs-lookout-) is long, between 13 and 15 kilometers depending on where you consider the climb to begin. Persistence and the use of granny gears will get you there, but in reality, its not that difficult a climb with some respite after the initial steep gradients are dealt with. At the top, Carrs Lookout, perhaps the most scenic lookout in South East Queensland, offers views over the valley where the Condamine River rises, and beyond to Mt Wilson and Mt Superbus in the Scenic Rim. A noticeboard commemorates the plane tragedy in 1955 on the nearby Mt Superbus, where a Lincoln bomber, on an emergency mercy flight crashed in inclement weather, killing all on board, including aircraft staff, nurse and the sick child. The wreckage exists to this day. Leaving Carrs Lookout, apart from a brief interruption along the valley floor, it is a fast and steep descent back to Teviot Brook campsite. What might have taken you hours to ascend previously, is all over very quickly. Riding solo, I was extremely careful on the descent and still easily clocked speeds over 50kmph Speeds in excess of 70kmph would be easily obtainable.. In sum, I think this can be considered one of the classic loop rides in South East Queensland, offering a variety of road surfaces, steep climbs and descents, sublime scenery and a chance for various wildlife encounters. Not the first time for me, but a 'must do', at least once, to my way of thinking anyway!

1) Bicentennial National Trail Route; http://en.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=5443787
2) Entire Loop Ride; http://en.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=5458204

Bicentennial National Trail; Rosevale to Allan Cunninghams Historical Campsite

Guidebook 6 of the Bicentennial National Trail (now out of print and available only in draft form and, as an ‘e-guide’) covers the Blackbutt to Killarney section. According to the Guidebook, none of this sections ~357kms' are particularly difficult for the cyclist. The route mostly follows the foothills of the Great Dividing Range passing just to the east of Toowoomba however, the range must be climbed just south of Toowoomba and again near the border. The Trail passes through a mixture of rough bushland and settled grazing/agricultural areas and makes use of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail as it leaves Blackbutt. It is worth mentioning that significant sections of the Trail in this region were destroyed in the 2011 and 2013 floods. As a result, there has been some major re-routing of the trail to deal not only with flood damage but also land access issues. Thus, Guidebook 6 is available only in draft form at the present time. Despite this, the Guidebook is complete in that it provides maps and route notes for the entire section

Follow up post to; http://thenorrisfiles.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/bicentennial-national-trail-thornton-to.html

Guidebook 6 Map 14; Rosevale to Allan Cunninghams Historical Campsite (~21km)

From the Rosevale Pub, the trail heads briefly east before turning south, following the bitumen through open farmland before the gravel is once again reached along the Moorang Wildlife Corridor. Sadly, there was more roadkill than actual wildlife visible as I past through the corridor on this day. The views are limited along this section as the bush crowds the road, but once the corridor ends, the bush opens up and the views along the eastern edge of the Great Dividing Range are breathtaking. From this vantage point, and until you reach Allan Cunninghams Historical Campsite, the steep eastern escarpments of the Main Range are your panoramic accompaniment while the ramparts of Mt Castle loom large, defending the trails route down the Bremer Valley. Simply put, the last 8-10km of this section of the trail, offers scenery that is nothing short of stunning.

At the 21km point, Allan Cunninghmans Historical Campsite is reached. Here, on the 24th and 25th of August 1828, Cunningham camped during his expedition to find a route over the Great Dividing Range to the fertile western plains of the Darling Downs. On the morning of the 25th of August, 1828, Cunningham, from this camp, departed on a 13 hour 'trek' that culminated in him locating a pass over the Range and visualising, from the northern summit of Mt Mitchell, the Darling Downs, 'the beautiful tract of country' that he had explored the previous year. Arriving back at the campsite, that today, is commemorated by a stone monument and plaque, Cunninghman experienced a late evening storm that he claimed to be 'as awful, at the same time as grand, as any that are to be witnessed'. His journal, eloquently captures the atmosphere and beauty of the surrounding landscape;

With unabated violence the tempest continued until after midnight, when, as if suddenly exhausted, the wind moderated, the clouds broke, gradually sinking down towards the horizon; and a bright moon, just past the full, now burst forth with many a brilliant star, to assure us, by affording light to observe the extreme pinnacles of the mountains perfectly divested of clouds, that at length calm, serene and settled weather was again restored to us.

A short, easy section of the Bicentennial National Trail that, in the latter half of the route, offers some impressive scenery. I rode this as an out and back ride however, it would be more practical to combine this section with adjoining sections of the trail or, as part of a multi-day ride around the region.

Tracklog; http://en.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=5123061

Bicentennial National Trail; Thornton to Rosevale

Guidebook 6 of the Bicentennial National Trail (now out of print and available only in draft form and, as an ‘e-guide’) covers the Blackbutt to Killarney section. According to the Guidebook, none of this sections ~357kms' are particularly difficult for the cyclist. The route mostly follows the foothills of the Great Dividing Range passing just to the east of Toowoomba however, the range must be climbed just south of Toowoomba and again near the border. The Trail passes through a mixture of rough bushland and settled grazing/agricultural areas and makes use of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail as it leaves Blackbutt. It is worth mentioning that significant sections of the Trail in this region were destroyed in the 2011 and 2013 floods. As a result, there has been some major re-routing of the trail to deal not only with flood damage but also land access issues. Thus, Guidebook 6 is available only in draft form at the present time. Despite this, the Guidebook is complete in that it provides maps and route notes for the entire section

Guidebook 6 Map 13; Thornton to Rosevale (~33.60km)

The trail now leaves the camping facilities at Thornton, a small township nestling under the shadows of the Main Range. Briefly heading north along the fertile plains of the Laidley Valley the trail is bordered by the Mistake Mountain Range to the west and the Little Liverpool Range to the East. Turning eastward, the Guidebook offers two options for crossing the Little Liverpool Range, either over Edwards Gap or, the 'softer' option for cyclists at Red Gap. The climb over Red Gap is steep but relatively short and the track for the most part can be ridden however, the odd section briefly deteriorates into a rocky track with steep gutters. This section of the trail, in reverse, is used for the annual mountain biking event the Flight Centre Cycle Epic. At the top of the Little Liverpool Range there are panoramic views down into the Bremer Valley and over old grazing country to Rosevale and Mt Walker. Further distant, the peaks of Mt Barney and Mt Maroon rise through a blue haze.

The descent from Red Gap is fast then, turning south and under the ever present gaze of Mt Walker, a combination of gravel and bitumen rural roads are followed, through mixed grazing and agricultural properties until Queenslands oldest hotel building is reached, the Historical Rosevale Retreat Hotel. Built in 1852, shaded by century old Elm Trees and offering clear views of the nearby Little Liverpool Range the pub boasts a fascinating history. Originally located one mile away on the banks of Black Gully Creek, it was moved by two bullock teams to its present site after the 1893 great flood deemed the original site unsuitable. During the five days that it took to complete the relocation, trading at the Hotel never ceased.

I rode this section of the trail as an out and back route. The options for short loop rides are limited as the southern end of the Laidley Valley is blocked by the Main Range and Mt Castle which stands like a fortress and can be seen for kilometres. However, the options for extended day rides or multi day rides in this region are endless and only limited by ones imagination. In short, a pleasant, relatively flat ride at lower elevations, other than the climb over the Little Liverpool Range, with the bonus of lunch at a wonderful old country pub!